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Best Whole-House Tankless Water Heaters

The phrase does a lot of work. Here is what it means at your inlet temperature.

By Brijon M., Owner and writer, MadGrey LLC·Last updated October 6, 2026·How we pick →

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A two-story suburban house photographed in daylight

"Whole house" means covering your simultaneous demand at your winter temperature rise. In most of the country that is a 199,000 BTU gas unit delivering around 5.5 GPM at a 70°F rise. A 24 kW electric unit is whole-house only in a warm-inlet climate, where a 50 to 55°F rise is enough.

Almost every tankless unit over about 18 kW or 150,000 BTU is marketed as whole-house. The label means nothing on its own, because the same unit is a whole-house heater in Orlando and a single-shower heater in Minneapolis. The only useful test is arithmetic.

The test, in one table

What counts as whole-house, by climate
ClimateWinter rise neededWhole-house meansExample
South Florida, south Texas48 to 52°F3.0+ GPM at a 50°F rise24 kW electric, or any 150k BTU gas unit
Gulf coast, southern California52 to 60°F4.0+ GPM at a 60°F rise180k to 199k BTU gas; electric is marginal
Mid-Atlantic, Carolinas62 to 70°F4.6+ GPM at a 70°F rise199k BTU gas
Pacific Northwest, Ohio valley68 to 75°F4.6+ GPM at a 75°F rise199k BTU gas
Upper Midwest, New England75 to 82°F4.6+ GPM at an 80°F rise199k BTU gas, and check the unit's curve

Notice what happens as you go down the table: the GPM requirement barely moves, because showers use the same water everywhere, and the unit class changes completely. That is the whole content of this page.

Quick picks

Tap any row to read the full assessment below, or go straight to Amazon from the right-hand column. We earn a commission on qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

Ranked picks with what each one is best for, our score and a link to check the current price on Amazon.
#ProductBest forPrice
1
A two-story suburban house photographed in daylight
Rinnai SENSEI RX199iNThe efficiency pick, and the one to buy if the unit has to hang outside: 0.98 UEF, 11.1 GPM at full fire, and it runs on either natural gas or propane indoors or out.
Highest published efficiency
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2
A plumbing manifold with multiple pipe runs leaving it
Rheem Prestige RTGH-95DVLNThe condensing gas tankless most houses should start with: 5.5 GPM at a 70°F rise covers two showers in a cold-inlet climate, and the 12-year residential heat exchanger warranty is the longest on this list.
Most whole-house gas jobs
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3
A washer and dryer in a plain utility space with pipework above
Navien NPE-240A2The high-flow pick: 11.2 GPM and a built-in buffer tank plus recirculation pump, which is what stops the cold-water sandwich on short, repeated draws.
Big draws and long pipe runs
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4
A close view of a shower head with water running
Stiebel Eltron Tempra 24 PlusThe electric tankless to buy if you are going to buy one at all: it publishes its full rise-versus-flow curve, and the Advanced Flow Control throttles flow instead of letting the temperature sag.
Whole-house electric, warm inlet
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The picks in full

A two-story suburban house photographed in daylight

Pick 1 — Highest published efficiency

Rinnai SENSEI RX199iN

The efficiency pick, and the one to buy if the unit has to hang outside: 0.98 UEF, 11.1 GPM at full fire, and it runs on either natural gas or propane indoors or out.

Published specifications for the Rinnai SENSEI RX199iN
FuelNatural gas or propane
Gas input199,000 BTU/h
Maximum flow11.1 GPM
Efficiency0.98 UEF
InstallationIndoor or outdoor
Warranty15-year heat exchanger (per retailer listings)

What is good

  • 0.98 UEF is the highest published figure of any unit on this page
  • One model covers natural gas and propane, which matters if you may convert later
  • Outdoor installation removes the venting cost entirely in mild climates
  • 11.1 GPM headroom means it throttles rather than straining in a three-fixture draw

What is not

  • Outdoor installation needs freeze protection and a power supply at the wall
  • Still a nearly-200,000 BTU/h gas load
  • No integrated recirculation pump in this model

Skip it if: Skip the outdoor install if your winter design temperature goes well below freezing for days at a time. Outdoor tankless units rely on an internal freeze protection heater and mains power — a multi-day outage in a hard freeze is how they split.

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Specifications above from Rinnai RX199iN product page. We have not tested this unit ourselves.

A plumbing manifold with multiple pipe runs leaving it

Pick 2 — Most whole-house gas jobs

Rheem Prestige RTGH-95DVLN

The condensing gas tankless most houses should start with: 5.5 GPM at a 70°F rise covers two showers in a cold-inlet climate, and the 12-year residential heat exchanger warranty is the longest on this list.

Published specifications for the Rheem Prestige RTGH-95DVLN
FuelNatural gas (LP variant sold separately)
Gas inputUp to 199,900 BTU/h
Flow at a 70°F rise5.5 GPM
Maximum flow9.5 GPM at a 35°F rise
EfficiencyUp to 0.93 UEF, stainless condensing heat exchanger
Minimum activation flow0.4 GPM
VentingUp to 150 ft of 3-inch PVC; 60 ft of 2-inch PVC
Dimensions18-1/2 in W x 9-3/4 in D x 27-1/2 in H
Warranty12-year heat exchanger (residential), 5-year parts, 1-year labor

What is good

  • The 70°F-rise figure is published, so you can size it honestly instead of guessing from the headline number
  • Condensing design vents in PVC, which is far cheaper to run than stainless category III pipe
  • 0.4 GPM activation means a trickle at a bathroom faucet still fires the burner
  • Long PVC vent runs let you put it where the gas line already is

What is not

  • Needs a gas line sized for nearly 200,000 BTU/h — many existing 1/2-inch runs are not
  • Condensate has to go somewhere, which means a drain or a condensate pump
  • Annual descaling is not optional on hard water

Skip it if: Skip it if your gas meter and line cannot carry 199,900 BTU/h. Upsizing the gas line is often the single largest cost in a tankless conversion, and no amount of unit quality fixes a starved burner.

Check price on Amazon

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Specifications above from Rheem RTGH series specification sheet (PDF); Pace Supply listing, RTGH-95DVLN, 199 kBtu/hr. We have not tested this unit ourselves.

A close view of a shower head with water running

Pick 4 — Whole-house electric, warm inlet

Stiebel Eltron Tempra 24 Plus

The electric tankless to buy if you are going to buy one at all: it publishes its full rise-versus-flow curve, and the Advanced Flow Control throttles flow instead of letting the temperature sag.

Published specifications for the Stiebel Eltron Tempra 24 Plus
Output at 240 V24 kW
Output at 208 V18 kW
Breakers2 x 50 A double-pole
Wire2 x 6 AWG copper
Current draw100 A
Minimum electrical service150 A
Rise at 240 V54°F at 3.0 GPM; 73°F at 2.25 GPM; 37°F at 4.5 GPM
Rise at 208 V41°F at 3.0 GPM; 54°F at 2.25 GPM; 27°F at 4.5 GPM
Maximum flow8 GPM

What is good

  • Publishes rise at four flow rates on both voltages, which is the only honest way to size an electric tankless
  • Advanced Flow Control cuts flow to hold the set temperature rather than delivering lukewarm water
  • No venting, no gas line, no condensate
  • Small enough to go in the cabinet it replaced

What is not

  • 100 A of draw and a 150 A minimum service rules out a lot of older houses
  • At 208 V it loses a quarter of its output, and plenty of homes are nearer 208 than 240
  • Running cost follows the electric rate, which is usually worse than gas per BTU

Skip it if: Skip it if your inlet water drops to 45°F in winter and you want two showers at once. At a 73°F rise it delivers 2.25 GPM — one shower, nothing else. Cold-inlet climates are where electric tankless disappoints people.

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Specifications above from Stiebel Eltron Tempra Plus technical specifications (PDF); Stiebel Eltron Tempra Plus submittal sheet (PDF). We have not tested this unit ourselves.

Two showers is the real benchmark

Households say "whole house" and mean "two showers at once without anyone noticing". That is about 3.6 GPM for the showers plus 1.0 for a sink, so 4.6 GPM. Three showers at once — rare outside large households with three bathrooms — is 5.4 GPM, and at a northern rise that is at the edge of what a single 199,000 BTU unit does.

Past that point the honest answer is either two units in parallel, which several manufacturers support with a common controller, or a storage tank. A single residential tankless unit has a ceiling and pretending otherwise is how people end up disappointed. Family of 6 sizing covers the large-household strategies.

Recirculation matters more on a whole-house install

The bigger the house, the longer the pipe runs, and the longer you stand at the far bathroom waiting. On a whole-house tankless retrofit this is the complaint that arrives in week two. Two routes:

  • A unit with recirculation built in. The Navien NPE-240A2 has a buffer tank and pump in the cabinet; the Rinnai RSC199iN recirculates through the cold line with no dedicated return, which can save a re-pipe.
  • A separate pump. A comfort pump at the far fixture with a timer, like the Grundfos UP15-10SU7P at 25 watts. Recirculation pumps.

What goes in with it

A water heater is a system, not a box. These are the parts that go in with it, and the ones people discover they need halfway through the job.

  • Flush kit

    The annual descale is not optional on a tankless unit, and you need a pump, hoses and a bucket.

  • Descaler solution

    What actually dissolves the scale once the kit is hooked up.

  • Recirculation pump

    Fixes the cold-water delay that makes new tankless owners call a plumber.

What to check before you commit

  1. Measure your winter inlet temperature. Two minutes with a thermometer in January beats any chart.
  2. Count your genuinely simultaneous fixtures. Be honest; most houses are two showers and a sink.
  3. Have the gas supply sized for the unit's full input by a licensed professional.
  4. Plan the vent route and price it. Condensing units vent in PVC, which is far cheaper on a long run.
  5. Find the condensate drain. If there is not one nearby, budget for a condensate pump.
  6. Specify isolation valves so the annual descale is possible at all.

How we chose

Rise-qualified output first, then efficiency, then whether recirculation is integrated, then install burden. We have not tested these units; our method sets out what we did instead.

Questions people actually ask

›What size tankless water heater do I need for a whole house?
About 4.6 GPM at your winter temperature rise, which covers two simultaneous showers plus a sink. In most of the United States that means a 199,000 BTU gas unit. In a warm-inlet climate a 24 kW electric unit can do it.
›Can one tankless water heater supply a whole house?
Yes, up to about two simultaneous showers plus a sink. Beyond that — three showers at once at a northern rise — you are at the ceiling of a single residential unit, and the honest options are two units in parallel or a storage tank.
›Is electric tankless enough for a whole house?
In a warm-inlet climate with adequate electrical service, yes. In a cold-inlet climate, no: a 24 kW unit at a 73°F rise delivers 2.25 GPM, which is a single shower.
›Do I need two tankless water heaters for a large house?
Only if your genuinely simultaneous demand exceeds about 5.5 GPM at your rise — three showers at once, or a large tub filler running alongside a shower. Most large households are sequential rather than simultaneous, and sequential is what a single tankless unit handles best.
›What is the best whole-house tankless water heater?
The Rinnai SENSEI RX199iN if you want the highest published efficiency at 0.98 UEF and the flexibility of indoor or outdoor installation on natural gas or propane. The Rheem RTGH-95DVLN if you want a rise-qualified flow figure you can size against and a 12-year heat exchanger warranty.